Getting There
Marco Polo to Venice: How to Actually Get There
Water buses, land buses, water taxis, and the option I wish I'd known about on my first trip. A breakdown of every way to get from the airport to the city.
14 min read
A travel journal
Notes, photographs, and honest recommendations from someone who keeps coming back.
Guides, walks, and observations from thirty-something trips to Venice
Getting There
Water buses, land buses, water taxis, and the option I wish I'd known about on my first trip. A breakdown of every way to get from the airport to the city.
14 min read
Exploring
After thirty visits, here's what still pulls me back and what I'd quietly skip if nobody was watching.
15 min read
Neighborhoods
San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Castello — each sestiere has a personality. Here's how to pick the right one.
13 min read
Food & Drink
I've eaten cicchetti at probably forty different bars in Venice. These are the ones I keep going back to.
12 min read
Landmarks
The piazza at 7am is a completely different place than at noon. One is yours. The other belongs to ten thousand strangers.
10 min read
Experiences
Everyone has an opinion. I've taken five gondola rides and have some thoughts on when it's worth it and when the traghetto does the job.
9 min read
Day Trips
Two islands, two completely different reasons to visit. One for the craft, one for the camera.
11 min read
Budget
A realistic budget guide for a city with a reputation for emptying wallets. Spoiler: the best things here aren't the expensive ones.
11 min read
Planning
Every month has trade-offs. I'll tell you exactly what to expect, including the ones the tourism board doesn't mention.
10 min read
Getting Around
Everyone talks about gondolas. Almost nobody mentions the traghetto — same canal, fraction of the price, and you stand up like a local.
10 min read
Markets
Go for the fish market at 8am, stay for the spritz at sunset. A guide to Venice's oldest commercial heart.
9 min read
Festivals
The masks are real, the crowds are intense, and the experience is nothing like the photos suggest. Here's what to actually expect.
11 min read
Art & Culture
This city is basically an open-air museum. But some rooms are better than others, and the entry fees add up faster than you'd think.
12 min read
History
Skip the audio guide, buy the Secret Itineraries tour, and see the parts of this building that most visitors never reach.
10 min read